Breakfast is early at the Sourdough Express, the manager mentioned (the night before when I checked on hours) there would be a bus group and, as we pull into the car park, the bus doors are opening. I dash in just ahead of the tour guide, who very grumpily shoos me inside and states that the bus group has the whole place anyway. This isn’t quite the case and the staff do a great job of balancing everyone’s needs. We pick up pastries for lunch here as well and then drive a little further on to the airstrip…well, the lake that serves as an airstrip for float planes.

Bald Mountain air operates two DeHavilland Otters, built in 1951, they are twin turbine seaplanes that feel safe and sturdy. There are eight people per plane, plus the pilot and, after another short briefing, we board for the hour and a half flight to Katmai National Park. It’s an interesting journey, mostly over Cook inlet, crossing by Mt Augustine, a volcanic island that erupts every ten years or so and over the Lake Clark area. There are low clouds and mist as we near land, so the pilot, Tony, takes us low, about 1500m, and follows a creek inland. Gordon has been lucky enough to snag a seat up front and can see the GPS as well, so knows we are safe. The other pilot, who took off ahead of us, is less confident We hear his radio discussion with Tony and he seems to have followed the creek too far and is moving into thickening cloud cover and nearing mountains. We circle twice, to try and locate him visually, then continue our journey once he confirms he has turned around to find another route. Around then, we hit a pocket of turbulence that has a few passengers gasping. A little drama for our trip. We know, from Gordon’s flying experience and other trips, that there was never any danger but some of the others may report differently.

After landing on Naknek Lake, Tony pulls the plane backwards up into the sand and helps us off. We all head for the bathrooms, then into the Ranger’s hut for bear school. The bear viewing platforms, there are several, are all raised and gated but the forest trails that lead to them are just out in the wild. We are told to speak loudly, clap our hands and give way to any bears in our path. No problems…they can go wherever they want. We are free to explore anywhere in the park and there are people fishing in many of the streams. There is a bridge that regularly gets closed when bears block access – a ranger stands and warns people. No food is allowed on the trails or at the platforms, in fact eating takes place only in little enclosures with electric fences…a reverse zoo almost. The only bear fatality in the past 85 years in this region was the incident with the infamous Timothy Treadwell and his girlfriend (see the movie Grizzly Man or just google if you’re interested). He, unfortunately, thought he had a relationship with the bears and became way too complacent, it ended badly and sadly. He is mentioned In conversations several times during the day, not far from anyone’s minds it seems.

The main viewing platforms are right on the Brooks Falls. The upper one is time managed – you put your name down, and if there’s room, you move out and get an hour of premium space. When time is up, you go back to the rangers and visit the lower platform. There is no problem putting your name down for another visit and the rangers will call when it’s your turn. Visitors are varied but all have cameras, from the Japanese girls (whom seem more interested in taking selfies, than the bears themselves) to the freelance German photographer, who has a boatload of equipment…huge zoom, big tripod. Most people are considerate and friendly, moving around for everyone to have a turn at the best viewing spots. Bear traffic is slow at first, one comes, splashes around, looks for fish and, when unsuccessful, moves off. Another wades up the river, snout down, eyes keen. They look hungry. The salmon haven’t started running consistently yet and we don’t actually get to see any jumping or being caught. The odd bird snatches a fish from the fast flowing water and a group of ducklings make their way comically, as they get tumbled by the current, across to the other bank but basically, we wait patiently for bears. Near the middle of our time, and when we are on the lower platform (no time limit here) there are three bears in the falls and another two appear on the banks, one chasing the other. I don’t care if I am allowed down there…these platforms are where I’ll stay!

At 3pm the rangers tell us that our planes have been relocated to Brooks Lake due to wind. The pilot had warned us this might happen, so we are ready to walk in a different direction. We team up with an Italian/French couple who are happy for the company and the loud voices. It only takes about twenty minutes to hike to the lake, then it’s climb aboard and a smooth liftoff. This time we fly high, above the clouds, back to Homer…there is a lot of snoozing. Back on the ground, we stop in to AJ’s steakhouse for dinner. One excellent sirloin, one serve of yummy scallops and the best onion rings I’ve ever eaten later, and it’s time to call it a night.