February 19, 2016 • 0

Cook Islands

The view up from Tamanu Beach to Etu Moana

The Cook Islands are literally in the middle of the Pacific; about a 7 hour flight from Sydney and almost directly south (a long way south) of Hawaii. The islands are scattered over a wide area, generally requiring small plane flights to travel between. Not all are even occupied and only a couple have the infrastructure to support tourists. We spent a week on the atoll of Aitutaki, arriving and departing via the main island of Rarotonga.

GETTING THERE – Daily flights are available from Auckland to Rarotonga. Air New Zealand also flies directly from Sydney. Economy layout is 2 3 2; try and get the 2 as the 3 seats in the middle are very cramped. Complimentary coffee, tea, water and TV shows are available but you pay (via seatback ordering on your screen) for movies, food and other beverages. It is worth pre-ordering as the online system works well in theory but they do run out of food quickly. We watched jealously as others got hot meals delivered. The welcome at Rarotonga airport hints at the friendliness you will encounter in these islands – live music greets all arrivals in the customs hall. The queue can be long so don’t hesitate to join the Cook Islands residents line after the locals have been processed.

The onward flights to other islands leave from the opposite side of the terminal, across the breezeway. Don’t leave too much time between them or you will be sitting around an empty terminal for hours – two hours between arrival and your onward flight is ample or, alternatively, leave yourself longer and hire a car to take a look at Rarotonga. You will have to call the hire car firm from the phones in the breezeway area and they will collect you, get you processed and on the road within about 45 mins. Air Rarotonga will look after your luggage for $5 per item.

Road from the airport

AITUTAKI (http://www.cookislands.travel/aitutaki)- The short, 45 minute flight to Aitutaki, a gorgeous island with one of the most beautiful pacific lagoons, was efficient and friendly; it was also the most relaxed check in ever. We had left our bags with Air Rarotonga and were told to check in half an hour before the flight…but as time ticked on, there was no sign of anyone at the counter. About 15 minutes before departure we were waved over by our first names and given paper boarding passes…bags already gone through. Staff already knew who was going on the flight and just ticked off a list as we went through the gate, no particular security, people were stopping to take selfies on the Tarmac, flight crew were chatting with ground staff – a total air of relaxation, yet still very professional.

Accommodation – We stayed at the Tamanu Beach resort, an amalgamation of two resorts that works very well. Most resort accommodation will collect you from airport with a lei. Aitutaki is not large but it’s still too far to walk from the airport. Our garden room is actually a separate bungalow in the older section but is still very comfortable and has a lagoon view/glimpse from our deck. There is also a nice, small pool right on the beach. The restaurant is a short walk along the sand. In fact, that is the way we get about most frequently on the island – by walking along the beach. Our friends are staying at Etu Moana, a slightly more upmarket resort (no restaurant though) with bungalows right on the beach front. There are several other resorts (including the exclusive Lagoon Resort and Spa – on its own little island across a causeway) and some private rentals (organising to bring some of your own supplies may be necessary) on the island.

Food – There are no major supermarkets on the island – just small grocery shops with a limited range. There is enough to stock our small fridge for breakfast and the odd lunch but otherwise, we choose to eat out. Most resorts have an island night of some kind that includes a seafood buffet and traditional music. We started at Paradise Cove’s Coconut Shack (it’s directly on the beach)…drumming, ukulele and dancing, along with delicious food made for a great first night. We then walked home along the beach with just a torch most useful for dodging hermit crabs.

The Island Night at Paradise Cove’s Coconut Shack

The next night we try the BBQ feast at Tamanu Beach Resort, this is a family tradition. The managers from Étu Moana, Miss Cook Islands and Miss Pacific Islands (who sung some jazz for us) were also in attendance, making it quite a special occasion. We also ate at Puffy’s – terrific fish and chips and yet another easy walk up the beach.

The restaurant at Tamanu Beach

Supplies – Town, is the village of Arutanga. It is the main port with a channel dredged through the lagoon for barge access. The main store has coffee and milkshakes, good quality clothing and a few souvenirs and groceries. Other shops along the way have an eclectic variety of wares. There is an ATM at the mango shop, not far from Pacific Island Resort.

Weddings – Weddings are very popular on Aitutaki, packages are available and organised through the resorts and include musicians, a minister or celebrant, cake, flowers, photographer and food.

Chickens and cats everywhere on the island. The call of roosters is common. A program of spaying cats has been put in place to contain the problem. There are no dogs…rumour has it an island chief’s daughter was hurt or killed by one and he banned them. Goats and pigs are also common but there are no snakes, foxes or other predators.

Things to Do:

*Hire a car (we used Rhino Rentals) for a day. A car allows you to explore further than the area near your resort. Drive the sand tracks in the south and watch for the big, land crabs. Drive to the track up to the highest point of the island – you must walk the last part but the views are worth it.

View from Aitutaki’s highest point

*Have burgers, chips and cold beer at the Blue Lagoon Restaurant, right on the beach in Aitutaki village.

Eat right on the water at the Blue Lagoon restaurant

*Hire a kayak or stand up paddle board and explore the lagoon.

*Visit the ukulele shop, admire the craftsmanship and even order your own custom instrument.

* Go deep sea fishing for a day (we used Black Pearl charters, run by the incredibly friendly and helpful Mike and Milly – they have standard tours or are available for private charter). The boys caught mahi mahi and dolphin fish ably assisted by Leo the skipper. http://www.blackpearlaitutaki.com/

*Have a delicious lunch and cocktails by the pool at the Pacific Island Resort. There is also a spa here and an excellent souvenir shop with a branch of Bergman and Sons for black pearls.

The entrance to the Pacific Island Resort

*Take a lagoon cruise (once again we used Black Pearl Charters), snorkelling, lunch on One Foot Island (they cooked up some of the fish caught by the boys the day before), see where they made Survivor Cook Islands, walked around Honeymoon Island (newlyweds can plant a palm tree), see wildlife and clam farms. A highly recommended activity.

*Relax and do nothing

RAROTONGA – We only spent a couple of hours on the main island but were able to drive right around it, have lunch and drop in to a waterfall. There are many resorts and private rentals here and it seems very family friendly. Shops, restaurants and activities are plentiful – it is the most developed and touristy of the islands but still retains its charm. Definitely an alternative to Hawaii or Fiji.