It’s still drizzling when I wake and steal downstairs for a cup of tea. Not a great outlook for our scenic flight but, as we’ve been assured many times in Alaska, if they stopped for rain, they’d go out of business. We are ready at 10:30, the time given for our pickup to the airfield, but no sign of a van, so Gordon calls. Things are done with very little urgency here…it’s kind of refreshing and worrisome at the same time. Eventually our ride shows and she chats to us on the short ride about all the climbers that have attempted Denali this year. Talkeetna Air Taxis handle roughly 80% of the transport in and out of the park. There were a couple of fatalities, she said, one couple that was inexperienced and ended up in a crevasse and another climber who died of altitude sickness. About 50% make it. Gordon is keener than ever.

Entering the building, there are a few others waiting, we are told that the cloud cover is high and whilst we will probably see a lot, we might miss Denali…but there is a chance. I vote to go; Gordon isn’t so sure but relents anyway. Next, we boot up, well, we put on outer boots over our other shoes…keeps them dry…then we climb aboard. Another DeHavilland Otter. There is just one other family with us so plenty of room with good views out the window. It’s only a short flight until we are over a glacier, then another, then the mountains loom into view. Bigger, bigger and sharper…I am astounded by how big this area is, mountains and glaciers everywhere…it’s jaw dropping. Unfortunately, though we zig zag across the base, we can’t see the top of Mt McKinley (Denali) and all too soon, we fly away. A glacier landing is next, we touch down smoothly and ski towards the base camp. The Kahiltna Glacier. There are several climbers waiting, happy to see the plane as it brings them closer to a meal that isn’t freeze dried. We jump out and take pictures, especially of nearby Mt Hunter, that has a steep, dangerous looking slope and of the plane facing back down the valley. It’s beautiful and silent, reminding me of the time, years ago, when a ski plane dropped us on the Tasman Glacier in NZ…we felt very small when it flew away leaving us surrounded by towering peaks. Not this time though, we get back in, now joined by two mountaineers and set course for Talkeetna.

The rain has finally eased when we land and get a lift back into town. Gordon doesn’t have time for lunch and goes straight to Phantom Fishing for his afternoon date with the salmon. I take the opportunity for more browsing in shops, taking photos and stopping at Shirley’s for a burger, a big, fat delicious burger. During lunch, I strike up conversation with a few locals who are very proud of withstanding the winters up here. They regale me with tales of 4ft deep snow and seeing no one for days. From here I wander over to meet Hank the Moose, a large, stuffed boy moose that now spends his days having tourists climb aboard for photos, it’s probably the closest I’ll ever get, or ever want to get, to a moose, so I join the fun. By about 3pm, I’m done and I walk slowly back go our cabin, snapping pics of old trapper’s huts, abandoned cars and even a couple of guys repairing a small plane in their front yard.

At 6, I head back into town, taking more pics, this place is a mecca and finally end up on the steps of the fishing place. Margot, one of the owners comes out and says she’s about to pick up clients from the river. This includes Gordon, so she invites me to tag along. Her little poodle Stella is on the front seat, she snarls at me at first but eventually warms up. This leads to a discussion about dogs and Margot tells me that she doesn’t let Stella outside on her own as an eagle might get her. I’d thought this was a movie fancy but, nope, it’s true, puppy snacks are popular with the eagles.

Gordon gets proudly off the boat, one of the last to return, and I can tell he’s happy. They fished along the shore, then having no success, their guide, Tyler, got them to troll off the back with lures. Everyone hooked fish. Sizes ranged from 12 to 40 pounds. They put up a good fight, reluctantly pose for photos and then are released, shaken but unharmed. If you’re into fishing at all, this is a must do activity. Margot drops us into town and we eat, reindeer meatloaf, fried provolone and key lime pie at the Twister Inn before returning to our cosy cabin for the night.