I’m up early taking pictures – our campsite on Sawyer Island is just stunning; the views are in all directions – taking in the glacier, steep walled mountains dusted with snow, waterfalls plunging off cliffs, icebergs floating past…you could sit all day and just watch. Dawn and Kit, our guides, are up early after having slept in a makeshift shelter amongst the rocks. When setting up the tents the day before, we had been unable to find the poles for the bigger tent. Dawn and Kit immediately insisted we take their tent, so hence the shelter. It can’t have been comfortable either as it was cold and drizzled all night. Still, they seem unperturbed and cook up a feast for breakfast. We are always well fed on this trip.

We break camp around 10am, load up the kayaks and enjoy several hours floating with the current, down the fjord. The walls are sheer in most places, with the odd crack sporting a waterfall, each seemingly more impressive than the last. There are very few places to pull out so toilet stops are limited but Dawn gets us out to stretch when she can. Lunch is eaten rafted up together, soaking in the scenery. A few tourist boats go by but largely we are alone. This really is a magical trip.

Campsite two – bear heaven

Camp two is in a field next to a flowing stream. We pull up on the kelp covered rocks and drag the kayaks into the long grass. There are obvious bear signs everywhere, piles of scat and flattened trails leading into the berry bushes. All our food is in bear containers and we cook and toilet in the tidal area. Tents are set up well away from trails and cooking (the missing poles were located stuffed far up in a kayak hold). It won’t stop the bears exploring but they are not habituated to humans, so will generally steer clear. Dawn once again cooks up a storm and we sit chatting for hours drinking beer and telling tales. Eventually, the rising tide drives us out of our shelter, there has been a light drizzle all afternoon, and once we are sure the kayaks are pulled up far enough, we retreat to bed.

Makeshift shelter for cooking

The tide comes in

It’s still drizzling in the morning but lots of coffee and hot food get us moving quickly, we have until 2pm until the Captain Cook will pick us up beside a large waterfall. It’s pretty much more of the same – in a good way – stunning sheer rock faces, waterfalls rushing through tree lined gaps, snowy mountains in the distance and us floating with the current, paddling occasionally. After about two hours, Dawn signals us into a small, rocky beach. We clamber out and sit on some rocks eating our pre prepared wraps, chatting and absorbing the scenery – we don’t want it to end. Back in the kayaks it’s not long until we spot a baby black bear foraging for food on the rocky shore. No sign of mama but we know she is there. Once again I quickly change to the telephoto lens to get some great shots without disturbing him.

Breakfast berries from the nearby bushes

Just another waterfall

The baby bear – where is mum?

The boat arrives on time and we board in the reverse fashion to our disembarkation – us first, then fully,loaded boats. Once things are secure, we join the 70 or so passengers on board who are fascinated by our adventure. It’s strange to be back with so many people. The ride back to Juneau takes three hours and passes some very pretty scenery, mostly though, we doze and enjoy being moved by motor. Back at the dock, unloading happens quickly and is accompanied by teeming rain which stops as soon as we have the last of the gear stowed in the van. Dawn drops us back to the Driftwood. First order of business – hot showers, then food and bed – nothing feels so good. A highly recommended adventure for anyone.